The Tuscan Maremma hides some of Italy's most atmospheric medieval villages - ancient stone settlements perched on volcanic cliffs, encircled by fortress walls, and crowned with towers that have watched over the countryside for centuries. Far less visited than the famous hill towns of Chianti or Val d'Orcia, these villages offer an authentic, unhurried Tuscany where cobblestone alleys lead to hidden piazzas, family-run trattorias serve recipes passed down through generations, and the views from the ramparts stretch endlessly over fields, forests and sea. All are easily reached from our apartment in Montiano, making them ideal half-day or full-day excursions.
Capalbio - The Little Athens of the Maremma
Capalbio sits atop a gentle hill surrounded by vineyards, olive groves and protected coastline. Known as the "piccola Atene" (little Athens) for the writers, artists and intellectuals who have long been drawn to its charm, the village is a beautifully maintained labyrinth of narrow streets, stone archways and flowering balconies. Walk the intact 15th-century walls for a panoramic circuit of the village, then climb the Aldobrandeschi tower for views reaching from the Argentario headland to the islands. Just outside the village, the Tarot Garden (Giardino dei Tarocchi) by Niki de Saint Phalle is a fantastical sculpture park inspired by Gaudí's Park Güell - a must-see for art lovers. Capalbio is roughly 25 minutes by car from Montiano.
Pitigliano - The City of Tufa
Nothing quite prepares you for the first glimpse of Pitigliano. The entire village appears to grow organically from the sheer volcanic tufa cliff it sits upon, its ochre and terracotta buildings merging seamlessly with the rock face. The effect is dramatic and unforgettable. Wander through the atmospheric Vie Cave - Etruscan pathways carved deep into the tufa thousands of years ago - then explore the old Jewish quarter, one of the best-preserved in Italy, complete with a restored synagogue and underground ritual bath. Pitigliano's trattorias specialise in hearty Maremma dishes like wild boar stew and hand-rolled pici pasta. The drive from Montiano takes around 50 minutes through some of Tuscany's most scenic countryside.
Sorano - The Matera of Tuscany
Often compared to Basilicata's famous Matera, Sorano cascades down a steep ravine of tufa rock, its medieval buildings layered one upon another in a seemingly impossible arrangement. Above it all stands the massive Fortezza Orsini, one of the largest Renaissance fortresses in Tuscany, which now houses an interesting museum and offers commanding views over the gorge. Below the village, more Etruscan Vie Cave wind through the forest - some reaching 20 metres in depth. Sorano feels wonderfully off the beaten path; you'll share the cobblestones with cats and locals rather than tour groups. It combines perfectly with a visit to Pitigliano, just 10 minutes away.
Montemerano - A Borgo of Quiet Beauty
Tiny Montemerano, officially listed among Italy's "Most Beautiful Villages" (Borghi più Belli d'Italia), is an intimate cluster of medieval stone houses gathered around the church of San Giorgio. The church contains a remarkable 15th-century polyptych, but the real draw is simply the atmosphere - flower-filled lanes, a single, welcoming piazza, and a handful of restaurants that punch well above their weight. Montemerano is just 10 minutes from the Terme di Saturnia thermal baths, making it easy to combine both in a single trip.
Magliano in Toscana
The nearest medieval village to Montiano, Magliano in Toscana is encircled by remarkably intact 14th-century walls that you can walk in their entirety. Inside, the historic centre revolves around a charming main piazza lined with cafés, a Romanesque church and an austere Aldobrandeschi palace. Just outside the walls stands the famous Olivo della Strega (Witch's Olive Tree), a gnarled olive tree believed to be over 3,500 years old. Magliano is surrounded by vineyards producing Morellino di Scansano wine, making it an ideal starting point for a combined wine and village tour.
Planning Your Village Tour
Each village rewards at least a couple of hours of exploration. Capalbio and Magliano are the closest to Montiano and can easily fill a half-day together. Pitigliano and Sorano are a little further inland but are best visited as a pair, perhaps with a lunch stop at Montemerano and a soak at the Terme di Saturnia on the way home. Whichever route you choose, the medieval villages of the Maremma offer a timeless side of Tuscany that many visitors never discover.
