Florence in September and October
Many people who have visited Florence more than once will tell you that September and October are their preferred months. The summer crowds have thinned, the heat has eased, and the city regains a more normal rhythm.
This is not a unanimous view. Some visitors enjoy the summer energy. But if you have a choice and flexibility on timing, autumn is worth considering seriously.
Florentine autumn: the best time
September begins warm. Average daytime temperatures are 25-28 degrees in the first two weeks, dropping to 20-22 degrees by the end of the month. Nights cool to around 14-16 degrees. Rain increases in October, with an average of 10-12 rainy days across the month.
The quality of light in September and October is different from summer. It is lower and warmer, particularly in the late afternoon. Piazzale Michelangelo at sunset in October, when the sky turns pink over the city and the hills are starting to show their first autumn colours, is one of the most memorable things Florence offers.
Tourist numbers drop noticeably from mid-September. You will still find queues at the Uffizi and Accademia, but they are shorter. Booking in advance is still recommended but the gap between a booked and an unbooked visit is smaller.
Many local restaurants and shops reopen in September after their August closure. The city is more fully operational in September than in any summer month.
September: still warm, fewer crowds
The first two weeks of September are essentially an extension of August in terms of weather, but with meaningfully fewer tourists. School holidays have ended in most European countries. The big group tours that fill the piazzas in July begin to thin out.
This makes September an efficient month to visit. You can spend time in Piazza della Signoria or Piazza del Duomo without constantly negotiating through tour groups. The experience of the city is different when it is not at maximum capacity.
The wine harvest (vendemmia) begins in late September in the vineyards surrounding Florence. The Chianti Classico wine region starts about 30 km south of the city. Some wineries offer harvest visits and tastings. If you have a car or are prepared to take a tour, late September is an excellent time for day trips into the countryside.
September still has long evenings. Sunset at the start of the month is around 20:00, and the outdoor restaurant culture continues. The city’s terrace tables are still in use, and the evenings are comfortable.
October: colours, events, local fairs
October is the month when the Florentine countryside turns gold and red. The hills of Chianti and the Fiesole area, visible from Piazzale Michelangelo and San Miniato al Monte, develop autumn colour from mid-October.
In the city itself, the plane trees along the Lungarno embankments and in the Parco delle Cascine change colour in October. The walk along the Arno is particularly good this time of year.
Taste of Florence (usually mid-October, dates vary) is a food and wine event held in various city venues. It focuses on Florentine and Tuscan producers.
Florence Biennale (when it falls in an even year, next in October 2027) is the city’s major contemporary art fair, held at the Fortezza da Basso. Dates and programme are published on florencebiennale.org.
Fierucola dell’Uva is a small organic market held annually in October, traditionally near the Forte di Belvedere. Local farmers sell grapes, seasonal produce, and wine. It runs one Sunday in October (check the Comune di Firenze website for the date).
Tutti Santi (All Saints Day) falls on 1 November but the long weekend around it begins the last days of October. Florence sees a moderate uptick in visitors around this date. Book accommodation and restaurants ahead if your visit falls during this period.
What you can do that you cannot do in summer
Outdoor dining in October without needing to wait for the evening cool-down. By October, sitting at an outdoor table at 13:00 is comfortable. In July, the same table would be unpleasant.
Walk the hill routes south of the Arno in full comfort. The walk from Ponte Vecchio up to San Miniato al Monte is a sweaty 30 minutes in summer. In October it is a pleasant, cool stroll with autumn colour around you.
Visit vineyards and olive farms in the countryside. October is olive harvest season in Tuscany. Day trips to farms in the Chianti or Valdarno area are available through local tour operators. Most offer olive oil tasting and visits to the press.
Spend time in smaller towns without summer crowds. Siena, San Gimignano, and Volterra are all more comfortable to visit in October than in August, with shorter queues and more space in the streets.
Temperatures and clothing
September: 14-28 degrees range. Pack as you would for late spring: light clothes for daytime, a light jacket or cardigan for evenings.
Early October: 12-22 degrees range. A medium-weight layer for the morning and evening is needed. A light jacket is sufficient.
Late October: 8-18 degrees range. Mornings can be cold. A proper coat, scarf, and warm layers are appropriate.
Rain in October requires a waterproof layer. The rain is rarely continuous but can arrive quickly. An umbrella or packable rain jacket is worth having.
Shoes suitable for wet cobblestones are worth prioritising in October. Stones in the historic centre are polished by centuries of foot traffic and become slippery when wet.
Where to stay
September and October are ideal months to be based in the city centre and take day trips from there. The Key is at Via Cittadella 22, a 5-minute walk from Santa Maria Novella station, which gives you quick access to trains for Siena, Pisa, and the Chianti area as well as everything within Florence itself.